Vis is fast gaining a reputation as a gourmet island. After spending a week here and gaining a few kilos I can certainly vouch for this. Vis also produces some of the country’s best known plavac (red) and vugava (white) wines.
But where to eat….here are a few of our favourite places to eat on Vis, the best island in Croatia.
Where to eat on Vis
Ask anyone in Vis about restaurants and Pojoda is always mentioned. It’s reputation is earned for its interpretation of local Vis cooking and its beautifully cooked fresh seafood. Nothing beats grilled fresh seafood and here Pojoda excels.
Škarpina or scorpion fish was our choice for the grill. The colour of this very sweet fish varies between a light red and a darker red depending on the depth of the water where it has come from. Other choices included sea bream, john dory or beautiful scampi.
Hidden in a garden setting in a corner of Kut, Pojoda is definitely one to try.
Ulica Don Cvjetka marasovića, Kut
Tel: 021 711575
Lola Konoba and Bar
For a completely different meal, head to Lola where gourmet food is served in a beautiful garden setting with the occasional glimpse of the sea. The young Croatian chef adds a touch of Spain to his dishes courtesy of his years living in Spain and his Spanish wife. The result is stunning.
My fish tower of two types of fish..hake and red snapper.. was served with a couscous salad and courgettes and tomato. My husband’s Spanish inspired seafood in rice was also excellent. Chunks of fresh fish and scampi in a tasty broth and well cooked rice reminded me of a version of paella.
True, this is not your typical dalmatian fare but after a while of travelling in Croatia, you will appreciate the very different menu.
Lola Konoba and Bar
Matije Gupca 12, Vis
Lola Web Site
Open from 6pm-12am
Some days you just feel like pizza and in Vis, the place to go is Karijola, overlooking the water between Kut and Luka. The wood fired pizza oven in the corner of the restaurant produces thin, crispy crusted pizza bases with a multitude of toppings. My favourite was the Pizza Karijola with tomato sauce, mozzarella, ham and rocket. Bookings can be made so request at table at the front if you can with the great view of the water.
Šetalište Viški boj 4
Tel: 021 711358
On our first visit to Vis, I learnt about travelling in high season the hard way. During our stay here we had watched the number of yachts moored in the harbour increase to the point where there were no more berths left but we still didn’t think there would be a problem with booking restaurants! Leaving the popular Kantun for the last night was not a good idea…they were fully booked!! Oh well. We’d have to come back next year.
And so we did. I must admit I was a bit disappointed. I didn’t realise you would have to mention that you were wanting fresh fish as well as when we arrived we were told it had all gone! The risotto was not good and my husband’s dish was mediocre. I still haven’t given up on the restaurant though. It is constantly mentioned as being very good for it’s fresh fish so I will give it one more try! If you have the fresh seafood here, please let me know how it is!
Ulica Biskupa Mihe Pušića 17, Vis
021 711 306
The boats are moored ten metres away from Gostiona Vis. Watch every one wandering along the promenade whilst enjoying a casual meal of local delicacies at this family restaurant. There’s not many tables outside, so book before you go for a drink! The owner will guide you to his recommendations and I must admit they were good. Because of the country’s closeness to Italy, risotto is on many Croatian menus. Some are well done, others not but his squid risotto was very tasty. Once again we opted for the grilled fish…you can’t go wrong with fresh seafood here!
No 35 on the waterfront, port end of Vis
In the centre of the island, surrounded by vineyards and olive groves you’ll find Roki’s. Roki’s is one of the major organisers of the island’s famous cricket match that takes place each year on the old, World War Two airstrip that is nearby. They are also known for their wines which you can try with dinner.
The reason to come to Roki’s is to have their peka…the typical Croatian dish that is slowly cooked under the bell or peka over coals.
The dish must be ordered the day prior or when you book. Choose from lamb, fish or octopus. When you arrive, you will be shown the where your dinner is cooking….there were 15 peka lids on the coals the night we were there but Mario mentioned that often has up to 22 to cook.
Roki’s is not the only Konoba on Vis to offer this style of cooking but it is the best we have eaten so far! An added bonus is that Roki’s will pick up up and drop you back to town.
Plisko Ploje 17
Tel: +385 98 303 483
Not far from Roki’s, is another restaurant specializing in cooking under the peka.
We popped in for lunch but they are only open in the evening. We had run out of nights to eat there so we’ll have to leave it for next time! The view over the vineyard looked lovely and the owners were very friendly. Please let me know if you visit.
Agroturizam Kod Magića
Vinogradarska 17, Vis
Tel: 091 8984859
I have already written about this fabulous restaurant on the beach at Stoncica when I wrote about the 4 of the best beaches on Vis
Situated on the waterfront, the restaurant here is the ideal place to relax having lunch after a morning at the beach. It’s very hard to beat the fresh seafood cooked on the open grill served with their famous potato!
Tel: 21 711 952
Restoran Senko at Mala Travna
Senko Karuza believes in slow food. In this tiny little bay on the southern side of the island, his dishes take time but they are worth the wait. Go for a swim between courses and spend a delightful afternoon relaxing in a beautiful bay.
We started with appetisers of local cheese with rock samphire, capers, olives, anchovies and fish pate followed by the most delicious fish soup and an equally tasty pasta e fagioli.
I could become addicted to the fish stew that was then served. Fish is often cooked this way on the islands. A brodetto is made by sweating garlic, oil and onion. Tomato is then added and sometimes a little wine and the fish is cooked in this sauce…needless to say the taste is exquisite.
We passed on the main course of grilled fish..the grill was not alight and we could see the day turning to night very easily!! Home made kroštule finished this fabulous lunch.
Tel: +385 98 352 5803
Back on the southern side of the island the next day, we ate at another small restaurant of the island of Veliki Budikovac owned by Andro Slavič. The bay here is one of the most beautiful to moor in. Stop by the restaurant and order lunch and then wander off to the other side for a swim. The vines on this small island produce a fabulous red that is served with lunch.
Simple starters of grilled aubergine and cherry tomato were served with a Vis speciality…a savoury pie with dough similar to focaccia, stuffed with onion and tomato.
When we arrived on the island we had been treated to a taste of fresh sardines just coming off the grill so we ordered these for our main course. Nothing beats freshly caught seafood cooked simply!
Grilled fish and lobster in brodo were some of the other dishes offered. Just check the price of the lobster as this is usually very expensive! The lamb peka looked excellent too but this had to be ordered the day before.
Veliki Budikovac, Vis
Tel: 091 7544069
Komiža: Konoba Bako
In the small fishing village of Komiža, three of the better restaurants in the town are next door to each other. We chose to eat at Konoba Bako. Situated on the northern side of bay, it has a beautiful view over the water and the village.
The restaurants are famous for their lobster and as this was our last night on the island, we decided to indulge. I popped inside to check the lobster swimming in the large fish tank in the floor of the restaurant before speaking to the chef toiling over the hot grill as to how it would be cooked. Simply cooked on the open grill, it was sweet and delicious!
With so many good restaurants on the island, it’s hard to try them all. We’ll definitely be going back to Vis, so I’d love to hear of any restaurants that you recommend
To come: What to do on Vis